Front Row
Front Row by Olivier Vaccaro.Every season in Paris, in an ineffable cascade of all kinds of fabrics, designers and couturiers adorn the runways. Reviews of the best moments of couture SS10, men SS11 and women FW10. Céline - FW10who would have believed that Phoebe Philo would come up with so much creative energy today? Her second season is the epitome of freshness. The garment is impeccable. Her refined craftsmanship is the hallmark of a great house, à la française. The shoes take your breath away.Yves Saint Laurent - SS11Touching, altering a man’s wardrobe is a dangerous mission. If masculine codes aren’t rewritten, Pilati redefines them, thinking up novel structural dimensions for each piece.Thimister – SS10Who could forget the perfectly draped little dress in black silk jersey or raspberry satin which, Stendhal-like, totally enraptured young French actresses ten years ago? The great Thimister is back, breathing unhoped-for contemporariness into the couture industry which, alas, is dying.Comme des Garçons – SS11The cropped jacket. The must-have garment of masculine chic, Rei creates and recreates it on these rumpled-looking boys. Protecting the body, what will its future be in a world of ridiculed romanticism?Hussein Chalayan – FW10After a poignant homage to McQueen in a speech preceding his fashion shows from New York to Hollywood, Hussein sends us on a voyage across an America reborn via the European prism of style.
